Lisbon in Winter: Fado, Hills, and Pastel de Nata
Why Portugal's capital is better when the cruise ships are gone.
Winter Lisbon is golden light without the summer crowds. I rented a room in Alfama and spent mornings getting lost on purpose, following laundry lines and the smell of grilled sardines.
One night I ducked into a small fado bar where the singer seemed to be performing directly to my jet lag. No one spoke during the songs. That silence felt like part of the music.
Between miradouros I ate my weight in pastel de nata. The debate over the best bakery is unwinnable, which is excellent because it justifies more research.
Favorite stops
- Miradouro da Senhora do Monte at sunset
- Time Out Market for a loud, happy lunch
- Tram 28 only once, early, before the queues